"Journals from the Edge" by Bill Boyum
And Bill recently launched a book telling the story: "Journals from the Edge"
Let's let Bill introduce us the book:
"A friend and I motorcycled and finally hiked along an isolated beach that we discovered in 1972. We walked the line between the big surf of the Indian ocean and an untouched jungle on the SE tip of Java, Indonesia, camping and surfing a perfect left for three days until our supplies ran out. Later we made more trips on boats and finally my brother Mike and I began a Spartan camp for surfers, the first of its kind in the world. It's name is Plengkung but in the surf world it's known as G-Land.
This January I just released my book "Journals From The Edge" that recounts the journey to that wonder of the world and beyond. It was a dream finding a new wave back then but now I enjoy a new world of adventure right here at home on Maui. Downwind paddle surfing on extra-long boards keeps me in touch with the adventure I've enjoyed all my life. I'm also fortunate to have the ultimate state of the art, easy to apply protection from wear and tear on the rails of my board with my hibiscus RSPro. These boards are expensive and one thing you learn in an adventurous life is how to make your equipment last. My book is available on the Kindle app. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SAEQZ7U"
Go and get the book